Fit, Proportion, Fabrics and Details.
All Photos: Milad Abedi
- It´s fair to say that we never before have experienced a reaction to any of our products as when we first posted photos of the new tailoring line. My phone and Instagram was red hot for the next 24 hours, says Andreas Larsson, the creative manager of Berg&Berg, who has designed and developed the new tailoring collection in close cooperation with our manufacturer and cloth suppliers.Why did you decide to develop a tailoring line?
- It is something we have wanted to do for a long time, a natural progression as we have moved from being a pure accessories player to gradually becoming more focused on a full clothing collection. When I started this job in July 2016, to start developing a tailoring line was one of my first tasks. To see this work come to fruition is very fulfilling. To have tailoring as a part of the Berg&Berg collection really gives us the possibility to present a whole look and to communicate our view of modern, classic style.
So what makes this line special?
- There are clearly enough suits and sports coats in the world, so we had to find an angle that would be exciting, both for us and our customers. What really stood out as interesting to us, was to create something with a bespoke look and feel – when it comes to fit, proportion, fabrics, construction and details.
Could you elaborate?
- To get the feel we wanted, it was important for us to go for a full canvas construction. To be able to reach an attractive price point, we are not creating a fully handmade suit, but have used hand stitching where we feel it is most important – the shoulder, the collar and the button hole. One of the most important things for me personally was the shoulder, and it has turned out really well – a spalla camicia construction with a very light padding.
What about the fit?
- We have developed a jacket that is a bit longer than most ready to wear jackets. A 3 roll 2 jacket with a drop 6, a nice drape and wide, wavy lapels. The jacket is half lined with some room in the body to accentuate the light feel. High armholes both for freedom of movement and good looks. The suit trousers are high waisted with pleats, the trousers´ waist is positioned around 2 cm below the buttoning point of the jacket to create a nice, flowing line. I think we arrived at something that is very flattering and more bespoke looking that most RTW currently in the market.
You also mentioned the fabrics?
- Yes, we wanted to use fabrics that are not widely used in RTW. For most of the garments we have used fabrics from Fox Brothers from Somerset, England, by many regarded as the finest flannel in existence. We have also used some very nice fabrics from Vitale Barberis Canonico for the suits.
” There are clearly enough suits and sports coats in the world, so we had to find an angle that would be exciting, both for us and our customers.
So who tailors the garments for you?
- We have found a great maker, located between Florence and Naples, that combines the best of traditional hand tailoring and modern production. It was very important for us to find someone who really understands our vision. As a niche player, it was also critical for us to find a maker that did not need very large quantities, for the first season the production is quite limited. So be aware that sizes and styles can disappear quickly.
OK, many customers will probably want to know what all this costs?
- I think we have arrived at a very reasonable price point. Our pricing mantra is value for money - not cheap, and the pricing of the tailoring reflects that. The sports coats in Fox flannel will be 720 euros/6950 SEK, the suits will start at 820 euros/7950 SEK.
Finally, when will this go online?
- On Thurday, November 16. We are now working hard to shoot all the photos and develop the product pages for the webshop. To work with these amazing products is a bit like Christmas eve for the team, too.
(This article was first published prior to our tailoring launch, November 2017)